Enjoying nature has long been a treasured pastime in Japan. About three hundred years ago, restaurants in Kyoto began a tradition of building raised wooden platforms next to or even over streams to enjoy in summer. These platforms are called “kawadoko,” meaning riverbed, and locals in Kyoto often refer to them as simply “yuka” or bed.
The delicious food, gurgling water, cool breeze and pleasant view provide a relaxing time with stimulation for all five senses. There are several restaurants in Kyoto providing kawadoko, and the Takao and Kibune are particularly known for their kawadoko restaurants. Each area has a unique style of kawadoko. Below we feature Takao and the Momijiya ryokan.
Located in the north part of Kyoto, Takao is surrounded by mountains. The picturesque Kiyotaki River runs through Takao and kadadoko restaurants take advantage of the river’s beauty. One reason for the popularity of Takao kawadoko restaurants is that the Kiyotaki River cools the kawadoko floors so they are about 10 degrees cooler than the lowland areas such as central Kyoto. During the summer months, Takao becomes particularly popular for people to escape from the heat.
One way to experience a kawadoko restaurant is at the Momijiya ryokan or inn. Founded in Takao in 1907, Momijiya is surrounded by exquisite nature and the cedars of Kitayama. Its guest rooms are tatami mat style, located throughout its three buildings. Since its renovation was completed in 2004, Momijiya offers an open-air bath called “Sora” (sky) and a half-open-air bath called “Yama” (mountain).
Momijiya is known for its skillful use of seasonal Kyoto ingredients so you can taste the best of the local cuisine all year round. One of their specialties is river fish, such as the ayu, sometimes known in English as the sweetfish for the flavor of its flesh. Another special feature of Momijiya is their summer dinner plan that includes entertainment by a maiko. In addition to the meal, you can stay as well. A relaxing bath, delicious dinner and pleasant stay--all at the Momijiya.
A maiko is a female entertainer skilled not only in a variety of traditional arts, but also well versed in the proper way to wear a kimono. They generally entertain at ocha-ya or teahouses, singing, dancing and playing traditional instruments to entertain their guests.
There are five small districts where the ocha-ya are concentrated in Kyoto, called “hanamachi” or flower towns in Japanese. The five districts are Kamishichiken, Pontocho, Miyagawacho, Gion Higashi and Gion Kobu. Home to many maiko, these areas are popular places for sightseeing. The street of Hanami Koji, which has had ocha-ya since the 1600s, is one of the most popular places. Before modern times, only the wealthy and powerful were allowed to enjoy Hanami Koji.
Both maiko and kawadoko are symbols of Kyoto. This is an experience that should not be missed.
Available only from May 1 to September 30
